Sailor Mercury

December 12, 2024

Sailor Moon wouldn’t be able to do her job without her senshi to back her up, so it only makes sense that when adding to this pattern collection, I have to start with Sailor Mercury. Once you’ve made one of the Sailor Scouts you can finish most of them – the main difference is the colour palette and the hair style, which just means when you complete the collection, you’ll be a pro at picking up stitches for the skirt and doing all the detailing! Without further ado, let’s get into the free Sailor Mercury crochet pattern!

You can purchase an ad-free PDF of this pattern over on my Ravelry, and if you do a huge thank-you in advance for your wonderful support!

What materials will you need?

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3.00 mm crochet hook
2 x 8.00mm safety eyes
Yarn needle
Scissors
Stitch markers
Polyester fiberfill or some other stuffing material
Blue yarn (Stylecraft Special DK – 1003 Aster)
Dark blue yarn (Stylecraft Special DK – 1831 Lapis)
Yellow yarn (Stylecraft Special DK – 1856 Dandelion)
Beige yarn (Stylecraft Special DK – 1710 Stone)
White yarn (Stylecraft Special DK – 1001 White)
9mm width light blue ribbon
Blue felt
Fabric glue

There are affiliate links in the brackets next to the colours for the exact yarn I used in this project, but any DK weight yarn will do!

Quick reference for beginners

Check out some of the below tutorials if you get stuck on any of the stitches or techniques

If you get stuck anywhere else, check out the FAQ or the tutorials page.

Sailor Mercury free crochet pattern

Head

1. (in Beige) MR 6 (6)
2. [ inc ]x 6 (12)
3. [ inc, sc ]x 6 (18)
4. sc, inc, [ sc 2, inc ]x 5, sc (24)
5. [ inc, sc 3 ]x 6 (30)
6. sc 2, inc, [ sc 4, inc ]x 5, sc 2 (36)
7-12. sc 36 (36)
13. sc 2, dec, [ sc 4, dec ]x 5, sc 2 (30)
14. [ dec, sc 3 ]x 6 (24)
15. sc, dec, [ sc 2, dec ]x 5, sc (18)

Insert safety eyes between rows 9 and 10, with approximately 5 stitches between them. Leave tail for sewing, finish off and stuff firmly. Stitch on the mouth using a few threads of black embroidery or cross-stitch thread. Yarn works as well but leaves the mouth a bit thick.

Hair

1. (in Dark Blue) MR 6 (6)
2. [ inc ]x 6 (12)
3. [ inc, sc ]x 6 (18)
4. sc, inc, [ sc 2, inc ]x 5, sc (24)
5. [ inc, sc 3 ]x 6 (30)
6. sc 2, inc, [ sc 4, inc ]x 5, sc 2 (36)
7-12. sc 36 (36)

Finish off, leaving a tail to attach to head. You may find that you need more than 12 rows, or maybe less depending on your head and the yarn used. Just subtract and add rows as necessary.

Attach the wig cap to the head using the tail. You only need to secure it in a few places for it to remain on.

Next, embroider on the hair. I usually pull up a reference picture when I do this. First, take a length of gold/yellow yarn and embroider on the tiara. Last thing to do is the blue centre gem. She has a side part, although which side it’s on depends on the picture you’re looking at, I part it on the right side.

The hair sweeps over in a short fringe, and the rest is basically the same length. I usually just go all the way from the top to the bottom, trying to imitate the way and direction actual hair falls.

Arms (make 2)

1. (in White) MR 6 (6)
2. [ inc, sc 2 ]x 2 (8)
3-4. sc 8 (8)
5. sc 3, 4sc popcorn, sc 4 (8)
6-9. sc 8 (8)
10-15. (in Beige) sc 8 (8)

TIP The popcorn stitch in the arm is the thumb. If you prefer straight arms, just replace it with a sc.

No need for stuffing, leave tail for sewing and finish off. Take a length of blue yarn and embroider it so that it goes three times around where the colour changes from white to beige (between rows 9 and 10). See pictures further below.

Boots (make 2)

1. (in Blue) MR 6 (6)
2. [ inc ]x 6 (12)
3. [ sc, inc ]x 6 (18)
4. BLO sc 18 (18)
5-6. sc 18 (18)
7. sc 3, dec 6, sc 3 (12)
8-10. sc 12 (12)
11. (in White) sc (12)

Finish off.

Legs (make 2)

1. (in Beige) MR 5 (5)
2. [ inc ]x 5 (10)
3-13. sc 10 (10)
14. [ inc, sc 4 ]x 2 (12)

Finish off. No tail is necessary as they aren’t sewn onto anything.

Body

Take the two legs and position them so that the feet are pointing correctly, I like to place two bobby pins in the stitches where the legs will join to make it easier to manage. Make a slip knot, insert hook in the stitch you are going to begin the round with, make sure to begin the round at the back of the doll so that the colour changes are kept out of sight. Put the slip knot on the hook, and pull it through. The next stitch will be a regular single crochet and will begin the round.

Join with two bobby pins or stitch markers. This is where you’ll go from one leg to the other.

Make one sc in the right leg in the stitch you marked. The next sc will be on the left leg, in the stitch you marked.

Do the same thing when you reach the markers on the other side. This is what it should look like after one round.

1-2. (in White) sc 24 (24)
3. sc 3, dec, [ sc 6, dec ]x 2, sc 3 (21)
(at this point stuff the legs – make sure the boots still fit)
4. [ dec, sc 5 ]x 3 (18)
5. FLO sc 18 (18)
6. [ inc, sc 2 ]x 6 (24)
7. sc 24 (24)
8. sc 3, dec [ sc 6, dec ]x 2, sc 3 (21)
9. [ dec, sc 5 ]x 3 (18)
10. sc 2, dec, [ sc 4, dec ]x 2, sc 2 (15)
11. (in Beige) [dec, sc 3 ]x 3 (12)
12. sc 12 (12)
13. [ sc, inc ]x 6 (18)

Stuff the rest of the body.

Skirt

This part can be difficult. You want to pick up 21 stitches, in the third row of the white rows. In between rows 3-4 of the body. There will be one stitch you pick up which goes from one row to the one above it, I usually make this stitch the first one I pick up, and I try and position it so that it is at the back and lines up with the colour change unevenness. I’ve put this process below with pictures and a matching description. I’m right handed and so I find it easier to turn the doll upside down, inserting the hook from right to left to start.

 1. (in Blue) Pick up 21 stitches
2. sc 21 (21)
3-5. [ sc, inc ] x (keep repeating all the way around. The exact number of stitches isn’t important, just mark the beginning of the round)
6. BLO sc all around ()

This is where we’ll start. You want to insert your hook into the stitch the blue pin marks and bring it out at the stitch the red pin marks.

This is what you’ll have. Now yarn over using the blue yarn, and pull this loop through both stitches.

You now have a loop coming up through where the blue pin was. Yarn over and pull through this loop (i.e. chain 1).

This is what you’ll end up with. This will be our first stitch when we finish the row.

Now you’re going to put your hook back into the stitch the red pin marks and come out where the green stitch marks.

You now have two loops on your hook. Yarn over and complete a single crochet as normal. This is the second stitch.

Repeat this pattern. Insert into red pin, come out green pin, yarn over, pull through, yarn over, complete stitch.

Do this approximately 21 times until you reach the first stitch you picked up. This is the beginning of row 2.

Now you can continue to sc as normal. It can be a bit difficult to manoeuvre your hook, but once the skirt widens it becomes easier.

Finish off, leaving a tail. The skirt will seem too big and probably curve upwards. Taking the tail, pin it to the legs at even spaces, making the skirt wavy.

Attach the arms. I like to pin them in place to get an idea of where they should be placed, then they are attached as a flattened piece using the tail. After the arms are attached take a piece of white yarn, and coming out underneath the arm (in the armpit) wrap it around the shoulder three times, doing the same to the other side. This is the finished result:

Collar

1. (in Blue) ch 9
2. (start in second chain from hook) sc 8 (8)
3-4. ch 1, turn, sc 8 (8)
5-9. ch 1, turn, sc 2 (2)
10. ch 1, turn, sc (1)

Finish off, leave a tail. Then repeat rows 5-10 on the other side of the collar, picking up stitches from the outer edge. Once finished, embroider on the white stripes.

You could also choose to make the collar out of felt or material.

Stitch the collar into place using the tails. I pull them both through a stitch in the centre of her chest and then use the end to pin down the back which tends to curve.

Cut out a small circle out of dark blue felt. Next you want to take two lengths of baby blue ribbon about 9mm in width: one approximately 6 inches long (15-16cm) and the other approximately 8 inches (20-21cm). Both need to be tied into bows. The smaller one will be in the centre of the chest and the larger one the centre of her lower back, where the skirt begins.

Attach the bows so that they don’t move and don’t come undone when they are pulled. I do this using a combination of glue and thread. I then glue the dark blue circle in the centre.

All that’s left is to attach the head. There should have been 18 stitches in the last round of the head and the body, so they match up evenly. Simple align the head properly, and whipstitch closed.

Well done, you’re finished! The Sailor Scouts are some of the more complicated patterns to complete but I love the end result so much. The Sailor Moon version was the first doll I made where I would walk past and stop to admire how cute the doll was.

Other patterns in this series

I’m in the process of converting my other Sailor Moon patterns into blog posts, but if you can’t wait, check out the bundle I have over on Ravelry where you can get patterns for all of the Sailor Senshi and Tuxedo Mask! If you make your own and you share on Instagram or Tumblr, don’t forget to tag @53stitches so I can check it out ☺️