Hi, Zuko here. Last but not least in our avatar amigurumi collection is Zuko! Although the others mostly follow their early introduction designs, I went with Zuko’s design when he joins the group, since it feels like a time when he’s more honest with himself about who he is and wants to be! Zuko was one of my favourites to work on and I’m especially happy with how his scar turned out. He joins the rest of the Avatar the Last Airbender gaang, so you can follow along with these free avatar crochet patterns and have your own adorable little crew!
What materials will you need?
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The colour codes in the brackets are for Stylecraft Special DK yarn, my preferred amigurumi yarn. You can use any DK weight yarn.
- 3.00mm crochet hook
- Black yarn (1002 Black)
- Beige yarn (1710 Stone)
- Dark red yarn (1123 Claret)
- Red yarn (1246 Lipstick)
- Yellow yarn (1856 Dandelion)
- Pink yarn / felt (1080 Pale Rose)
- Red yarn / felt (1246 Lipstick)
- Felting needle
- Black thread
- Stuffing
- 2 x 8.00mm safety eyes
- Scissors
- Pins
When finished, your doll should be about 17.5cm (or about 12 inches) tall. Your doll may have slightly different dimensions depending on the hook, yarn and your crocheting tension.
Quick reference for beginners
Check out some of the tutorials below if you get stuck, or want a refresher, on any of the stitches we use in this pattern! All of my human dolls, but particularly the detailed ones like Avatar characters, can be a bit tricky for beginners. So take it slow, and take a break if you find yourself getting frustrated!
- How to read patterns
- Magic ring
- Single crochet
- Increase
- Decrease
- How to change colours
- Chain
- Attaching amigurumi limbs
- Back loop only
- Slip stitch
- Popcorn stitch
- Picking up stitches
If you get stuck anywhere else, check out the FAQ.
Toph – The last Airbender avatar crochet patterns free
HEAD
row 1: (in Beige) MR 6sc (6)
row 2: [ inc ]x 6 (12)
row 3: [ inc, sc ]x 6 (18)
row 4: [ sc, dec, sc ]x 6 (24)
row 5: [ inc, sc 3 ]x 6 (30)
row 6: [ sc 2, dec, sc 2 ]x 6 (36)
rows 7-12: sc 36 (36)
row 13: [ sc 2, dec, sc 2 ]x 6 (30)
row 14: [ dec, sc 3 ]x 6 (24)
row 15: [ sc, dec, sc ]x 6 (18)
Finish off, leaving a tail approximately 20cm or 7.5 inches. Insert your safety eyes between rows 9 and 10, with approximately 5 stitches between them. Stuff firmly. Embroider the mouth using a few threads of black embroidery or cross-stitch thread.
TIP You can also use yarn to sew on the mouth, though it makes it a bit thicker. For a more expressive or detailed mouth, try felt.
HAIR CAP
row 1: (in Black) MR 6sc (6)
row 2: [ inc ]x 6 (12)
row 3: [ inc, sc ]x 6 (18)
row 4: [ sc, inc, sc ]x 6 (24)
row 5: [ inc, sc 3 ]x 6 (30)
row 6: [ sc 2, inc, sc 2 ]x 6 (36)
rows 7-12: sc 36 (36)
Finish off, leaving a tail approximately 20cm or 7.5 inches. Use the tail to attach the wig cap to the stuffed head. I don’t go through every stitch of the wig cap, it only needs to be secured in 4 or 5 places to hold properly.
TIP Depending on the yarn you use for the head and hair, you may need more than 12 rows, or less than 12 rows to find the right fit for the wig cap. Adjust as needed.
EARS
Make one ear in Beige and the other in Pink
row 1: (in Colour) ch 3 (3)
row 2: ch 1, turn, sl st, sc, sl st (3)
Finish off, leaving a tail approximately 12cm or 5 inches.
Next I use pins to position the ears, and then use the tails to attach them. I try to give them a little curve, like real ears would have. The top of the ear should be in line with the middle of the eye, and about 5 stitches away from the eye, or wherever it meets the edge of the wig cap.
SCAR
Zuko’s scar is embroidered on using pink, red and black yarn; and then tidied up using a felting needle. The felting needle is an unnecessary step if you don’t have one. Alternatively, if you do – you can also make the eye completely out of felting wool or felt and avoid the embroidery. Up to you! But here’s the method I used.
The ears and wig cap should already be attached at this point, so they’re a good starting reference point. I then take a bunch of pins and start marking out where I want the scar to go. Luckily I have some pink, red and black pins so that helps visualise what the end result will look like.
Then I take a length of the same pink yarn the ear was made out of and thread it onto a yarn needle. First I follow the original pins and outline the scars shape. Then I fill in those spaces, embroidering in the same direction that the scar pulls.
Once that step is done I take the felting needle and poke it a lot to help smooth the lines a little and flatten the shape, since needle felting will join the threads together and push them closer to the head.
Next, do the same step with the red yarn, creating a smaller circle. Again, once that’s done, I go in with the felting needle and flatten shape a little more. Finally, take a length of black yarn and embroider the eye. I don’t needle felt that part. Done!
HAIR
We’re going to embroider the hair on using black yarn. I usually start with the fringe, then move to the shorter pieces of hair at the back-bottom of the head, then I fill in the rest of the head.
Owlishly has a great tutorial on embroidering hair and is where I originally learnt this technique: http://owlishly.typepad.com/owlishly/2007/08/amigurumi-hair.html
For the most part it’s easier to see and imitate in pictures – and I will often pull up a reference picture of Zuko while I do this to try and recreate how his hair acts and looks. Dark yarn can be harder to photograph, but hopefully you can see what’s going on.
ARMS (make 2)
row 1: (in Beige) MR 6 (6)
row 2: [ inc, sc 2 ]x 2 (8)
rows 3-4: sc 8 (8)
row 5: sc 3, 4sc popcorn, sc 4 (8)
rows 6-11: sc 8 (8)
rows 12-15: (in Red) sc 8 (8)
The arms are so small there’s no need for stuffing. Leave a tail approximately 20cm or 7.5 inches long and finish off.
TIP The popcorn stitch in the arm is the thumb. If it’s a bit tricky or you prefer straight arms, simply replace it with a sc.
SLEEVE (make 2)
row 1: (in Red) ch 9 (9)
row 2: sl st into first chain to make a circle, inc, sc 7 (10)
row 3: sc 10 (10)
row 4: inc, sc 9 (11)
row 5: sc 11 (11)
row 6: inc, sc 10 (12)
row 7: (in Dark Red) inc, sc 11 (13)
Slip the arm into the sleeve. I usually don’t bother attaching them until the arm and sleeve are attached to the body together.
LEGS
row 1: (in Black) MR 6 (6)
row 2: [ inc ]x 6 (12)
row 3: [ inc, sc ]x 6 (18)
row 4: BLO sc 18 (18)
rows 5-7: sc 18 (18)
row 8: sc 3, dec 6, sc 3 (12)
rows 9-11: sc 12 (12)
row 12: (in Red) inc 12 (24)
row 13: sc 24 (24)
row 14: dec 12 (12)
rows 15-19: sc 12 (12)
Finish off the first leg. Leave the second leg on the hook. This will make it easier to join.
JOINING THE LEGS
Take the two legs and position them so that both feet are pointing correctly. I like to place two bobby pins or stitch markers across the stitches where the legs will join to make it a little easier to keep track of. Position both legs. Make sure the feet are pointing forwards, and the start of the round is at the back to avoid visible colour changes.
BODY
When you get to the rows marked with * read the notes below before continuing.
rows 1-5: (in Red) sc 24 (24)
row 6: (in Dark Red) sc 24 (24)
row 7: sc 24 (24) * 1 stitch in Red
row 8: sc 3, dec, [ sc 6, dec ]x 2, sc 3 (21) ** 3 stitches in Red
row 9: [ dec, sc 5 ]x 3 (18) ** 3 stitches in Red
row 10: sc 2, dec, [ sc 4, dec ]x 2, sc 2 (15) ** 3 stitches in Red
row 11: [ dec, sc 3 ]x 3 (12) *** 3 stitches in Beige
row 12: (in Beige) sc 12 (12)
row 13: [ sc, inc ]x 6 (18)
Finish off and stuff the rest of the body.
* The row marked with a single stars will have 1 stitch in red. Where this stitch goes will depend on where you joined the legs – it should be the stitch in the middle of the chest. I like to mark it with a bobby pin so I can make sure it’s centred before I start the row.
** Rows marked with two stars should have 3 stitches in red – the middle one should be in line with the red stitch from the previous row. If one of the decreases falls on a red stitch, try and move it earlier or later (in the dark red colour).
** Rows marked with three stars should have 3 stitches in beige – these should sit directly on top of the red stitches. As before, if there are decreases in these stitches, simply move them to either side.
TIP Stuff the legs before beginning the decreases. Make sure it’s not stuffed too much. You should be able to press the bottom of the feet in and have the doll stand.
SHIRT BOTTOM
row 1: (in Dark Red) ch 24 (24)
row 2: ch 2, turn, hdc 12, inc, dc 11 (25)
row 3: ch 2, turn, hdc 12, inc, dc 12 (26)
row 4: ch 2, turn, hdc 6, inc, hdc 12, inc, hdc 6 (28)
row 5: ch 2, turn, inc, hdc 26, inc (30)
Putting it all together
Now to start putting it together! First, we’re going to add the gold detailing to the boots. Make 2 chains of 8 stitches for the boots. Then use the tails to attach these to the middle of the boots.
Then, pin the bottom of the coat the waist and use the tail to whipstitch it into place. I go through every stitch on the coat piece to make sure that it’s a smooth join.
Next, make a chain of 24 stitches that goes from the centre of the waist and around the neck for the colour of the jacket.
And 2 chains of 7 stitches for the edges of the coat bottom. Additionally, 2 chains of 3 stitches that go from the bottom of the coat edge and then angle upwards, as pictured.
Make a chain of 24 stitches for around the waist.
Attach the arms next. I like to pin them in place to get an idea of where they should be placed, then they are attached as a flattened piece using the tail. I thread the tail of the sleeve and the arm and use both to attach them.
Finally, attach the head. There should have been 18 stitches in the last round of the head and the body, so they match up evenly. Simply align the head, and whipstitch closed. Sometimes I get halfway and then realise the head is off-centre. That’s fine, just undo the stitches and move it right or left as needed.
Congratulations, you’re done!
Other free avatar crochet patterns in the series
Teamwork makes the dream work right? The rest of the Avatar Gaang is free on the blog as well. Check out the Avatar: The Last Airbender collections for more patterns from this series! Don’t forget to tag @53stitches on Instagram or Tumblr if you share your work online, I love to see your creations!
