She may have joined the Gaang later, but it’s not complete without our favourite Kiyoshi warrior – Suki! I absolutely love the design of the Kiyoshi warriors and I had a lot of fun turning it into an adorable crochet version. Suki joins the rest of the Avatar the Last Airbender gaang, so you can follow along with these free avatar crochet patterns and have your own adorable little crew!
What materials will you need?
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The colour codes in the brackets are for Stylecraft Special DK yarn, my preferred amigurumi yarn. You can use any DK weight yarn.
- 3.00mm crochet hook
- White yarn (1001 White)
- Green yarn (1826 Kelly Green)
- Dark Green yarn (1009 Bottle)
- Dark grey yarn (1063 Graphite)
- Rusty brown yarn (1806 Gingerbread)
- Yellow yarn (1856 Dandelion)
- Black yarn (1002 Black)
- Red felt
- Yellow felt
- Black thread
- Stuffing
- 2 x 8.00mm safety eyes
- Scissors
- Pins
When finished, your doll should be about 17.5cm (or about 12 inches) tall. Your doll may have slightly different dimensions depending on the hook, yarn and your crocheting tension.
Quick reference for beginners
Check out some of the tutorials below if you get stuck, or want a refresher, on any of the stitches we use in this pattern! All of my human dolls, but particularly the detailed ones like Avatar characters, can be a bit tricky for beginners. So take it slow, and take a break if you find yourself getting frustrated!
- How to read patterns
- Magic ring
- Single crochet
- Increase
- Decrease
- How to change colours
- Chain
- Attaching amigurumi limbs
- Back loop only
- Slip stitch
- Popcorn stitch
- Picking up stitches
If you get stuck anywhere else, check out the FAQ.
Suki – The last Airbender avatar crochet patterns free
HEAD
row 1: (in White) MR 6sc (6)
row 2: [ inc ]x 6 (12)
row 3: [ inc, sc ]x 6 (18)
row 4: [ sc, dec, sc ]x 6 (24)
row 5: [ inc, sc 3 ]x 6 (30)
row 6: [ sc 2, dec, sc 2 ]x 6 (36)
rows 7-12: sc 36 (36)
row 13: [ sc 2, dec, sc 2 ]x 6 (30)
row 14: [ dec, sc 3 ]x 6 (24)
row 15: [ sc, dec, sc ]x 6 (18)
Finish off, leaving a tail approximately 20cm or 7.5 inches to use for attaching to the body later.
Now, place your safety eyes between rows 9 and 10, with approximately 5 stitches between them, but don’t slide on the safety washer yet – we’re just using it for position for now. Stuff firmly.
Take a length of black yarn or thread, and embroider on some eyebrows. Then, take some red felt and cut out the shape of the eye makeup. You can pin this on your doll to make sure you’re happy with it. I usually cut two shapes and place them together, but one would work fine as well. Once you’re satisfied with the shape and positioning, grab your felting needle and stab it into the felt until it’s nice and secure. If you don’t have a felting needle, you can also simply glue it in place, embroider it using yarn – or paint it on using fabric paint!
I also use the wig cap (the next part of the crochet pattern) to make sure the positioning is good.
Now that you’re happy with the makeup, insert the safety eyes and put the washer on to secure them. Embroider the mouth using a few threads of red embroidery or cross-stitch thread.
HAIR CAP
row 1: (in Brown) MR 6sc (6)
row 2: [ inc ]x 6 (12)
row 3: [ inc, sc ]x 6 (18)
row 4: [ sc, inc, sc ]x 6 (24)
row 5: [ inc, sc 3 ]x 6 (30)
row 6: [ sc 2, inc, sc 2 ]x 6 (36)
rows 7-12: sc 36 (36)
Finish off, leaving a tail approximately 20cm or 7.5 inches. Use the tail to attach the wig cap to the stuffed head. I don’t go through every stitch of the wig cap, it only needs to be secured in 4 or 5 places to hold properly.
TIP Depending on the yarn you use for the head and hair, you may need more than 12 rows, or less than 12 rows to find the right fit for the wig cap. Adjust as needed.
EARS
row 1: (in White) ch 3 (3)
row 2: ch 1, turn, sl st, sc, sl st (3)
Finish off, leaving a tail approximately 12cm or 5 inches.
Next I use pins to position the ears, and then use the tails to attach them. I try to give them a little curve, like real ears would have. The top of the ear should be in line with the middle of the eye, and about 5 stitches away from the eye, or wherever it meets the edge of the wig cap.
HAIR
To make the hair we’ll want to create about 10 ‘bunches’ of yarn. Each bunch will have 5 strands of yarn. The length of the yarn strands should be about twice as long as you want the hair to be – I usually make my pieces longer, rather than shorter, because I can always give her a haircut at the end if needed.
An easy way to quickly create these bunches is to get a piece of cardboard or a box, and wrap the yarn around it, then cut it straight across at any point and all strands will be the same length. That’s what I’m doing in the pictures below – I wrap it around the box 25 times, cut it, and then cut that in half as well – then I have 50 strands of “hair”.
Take a length of brown yarn on a needle and bring it up through the neck to where you want the part to be. Then, for the first bunch, place the centre at the crown of the head, then, taking that yarn on the needle, go back into the wig cap over the bunch. Pull it tight to hold the bunch in place.
The next bunches will go up against the previous one, so that you’re building the hair up, embroidering a hairline all the way down the head until all the bunches are gone and the head is covered.
To help secure the hair in place and to help it sit a little flatter against the head, I take fabric glue and create a triangle shape right at the hairline and in line with the ear. Flatten the hair against this so that it sits nicely.
Then you’re done with the hair!
ARMS (make 2)
row 1: (in Dark Grey) MR 6sc (6)
row 2: [ inc, sc 2 ]x 2 (8)
rows 3-4: sc 8 (8)
row 5: sc 3, 4sc popcorn, sc 4 (8)
rows 6-9: sc 8 (8)
row 10: (in Green) FLO inc 8 (16)
row 11: sc 16 (16)
row 12: dec 8 (8)
rows 13-15: sc 8 (8)
The arms are so small there’s no need for stuffing. Leave a tail approximately 20cm or 7.5 inches long and finish off.
Pick up a row of stitches in green between rows 6 & 7 – just after the thumb. Then take a length of dark green yarn and embroider a stripe down the outside of the arm – from the top of the arm to the bottom of the puffy sleeve. Then take a length of yellow yarn and embroider on the yellow detailing – a dot in the middle of the grey arm brace, and in the middle of the dark green stripe we just made.
TIP The popcorn stitch in the arm is the thumb. If it’s a bit tricky or you prefer straight arms, simply replace it with a sc.
SHOULDER PADS (make 2)
row 1: (in Black) ch 3 (3)
row 2: ch 2, turn, hdc 3 (3)
Finish off, leaving a tail long enough to attach to the body later.
LEGS (make 2)
row 1: (in Dark Grey) MR 6sc (6)
row 2: [ inc ]x 6 (12)
row 3: [ inc, sc ]x 6 (18)
row 4: BLO sc 18 (18)
rows 5-6: sc 18 (18)
row 7: sc 2, dec 7, sc 2 (11)
rows 8-18: sc 11 (11)
row 19: inc, sc 10 (12)
Finish off the first leg. Leave the second leg on the hook. This will make it easier to join.
Take the two legs and position them so that both feet are pointing correctly. I like to place two bobby pins or stitch markers across the stitches where the legs will join to make it a little easier to keep track of. Position both legs. Make sure the feet are pointing forwards, and the start of the round is at the back to avoid visible colour changes.
BODY
rows 1-2: (in Dark Grey) sc 24 (24)
row 3: [ sc 3, dec, sc 3 ]x 3 (21)
(at this point stuff the legs)
row 4: [ dec, sc 5 ]x 3 (18)
row 5: (in Dark Green) sc 18 (18)
row 6: FLO sc 18 (18)
row 7: (in Dark Grey) [ inc, sc 2 ]x 6 (24)
row 8: sc 24 (24)
row 9: [ sc 3, dec, sc 3 ]x 3 (21)
row 10: [ dec, sc 5 ]x 3 (18)
row 11: [ sc 2, dec, sc 2 ]x 3 (15)
row 12: [ dec, sc 3 ]x 3 (12)
row 13: (in Green) sc 12 (12)
row 14: (in White) [ sc, inc ]x 6 (18)
Finish off and stuff the rest of the body.
TIP Stuff the legs before beginning the decreases. Make sure it’s not stuffed too much. You should be able to press the bottom of the feet in and have the doll stand.
SKIRT
See the section on picking up stitches in the tutorials if you haven’t done it before 🙂
row 1: (in Dark Green) pick up 21 stitches between rows 3 and 4 of the body (21)
row 2: [ sc 3, inc, sc 3 ]x 3 (24)
row 3: sc 24 (24)
row 4: [ inc, sc 7 ]x 3 (27)
row 5: sc 27 (27)
row 6: [ sc 4, inc, sc 4 ]x 3 (30)
row 7: sc 30 (30)
row 8: [ inc, sc 9 ]x 3 (33)
row 9: sc 33 (33)
row 10: [ sc 5, inc, sc 5 ]x 3 (36)
rows 11-20: sc 36 (36)
I finish all of my pieces by doing a slip stitch in the last stitch – but it’s particularly handy for items like this where you want to reduce the height difference at the end. Finish off, weaving the tail into the skirt to hide it.
GREEN PANELS (make 2)
When starting these panels, leave a long enough tail at the start to use to attach to the body later.
row 1: (in Green) sc 9 (9)
rows 2-4: ch 1, turn, sc 9 (9)
Finish off, leaving a tail long enough to sew onto the body later.
Finish off, weave the tail into the piece and trim to hide it. Leave the longer one we created at the start.
TIP If your piece has trouble lying flat, try ironing it. Some acrylic yarns may melt under the heat of an iron, so you can place a piece of baking wax paper or a towel between them to keep that from happening.
GREY PANELS (make 4)
When starting these panels, leave a long enough tail at the start to use to attach to the body later.
row 1: (in Dark Grey) ch 6 (6)
rows 2-6: ch 1, turn, sc 6 (6)
Finish off, weave the tail into the piece and trim to hide it. Leave the longer one we created at the start.
Putting it all together
First we’re going to attach the skirt panels. The larger green ones are first. I like to pin them in place to make sure that they’re centered before I use the tails to attach them. I go through every stitch, whipstitching it to the body to make sure it has a nice neat finish. Once that’s done we can attach the grey panels. These are evenly spaced around the waist as well and attached via the same process – pin in place and then whipstitch on.
Next is the arms. They are attached as a flattened piece using the tail, and I am usually less methodical about this, just making sure that they look tidy-ish and are firmly attached. Once they’re on we can put the shoulder pads on, and I also wrap the tails around the arm so that they look like the straps on Suki’s outfit, even though it doesn’t really contribute to how they stay in place.
Then some final details before we attach the head. Take a length of black yarn and embroider it as a line between the grey and green at her neck. Then take a length of yellow yarn and embroider the small lines above her waist on her left.
The head has one piece of detailing left before it’s done – her headgear. This made up of yellow felt and I stack and glue the following pieces: a triangle for the base, four small strips and a rectangular piece that sits in the centre. I glue this in place and also add a small stitch in yellow on either side to make sure it’s extra secure. You’ll also need yellow yarn to make the dangly bits on the side – I basically poke these out of the head, tie a knot on the backside to help it stay in place. We’ll also tie a knot on the front side – but I wait until the head is attached so I can trim it and the hair in one go.
We’re ready to attach the head. There should have been 18 stitches in the last round of the head and the body, so they match up evenly. Simply align the head, and whipstitch closed. Sometimes I get halfway and then realise the head is off-centre. That’s fine, just undo the stitches and move it right or left as needed.
And lastly, trim the hair to the correct length, and tie the knot on the yellow hat dangles and trim those.
Congratulations, you’re done!
Other free avatar crochet patterns in the series
Teamwork makes the dream work right? The rest of the Avatar Gaang is free on the blog as well. Check out the Avatar: The Last Airbender collections for more patterns from this series! Don’t forget to tag @53stitches on Instagram or Tumblr if you share your work online, I love to see your creations!
