Toph

December 6, 2024

Give it up for The Blind Bandit! Toph is such a great character (I mean all the Avatar characters are), there’s no way I could skip turning her into an adorable crochet amigurumi along with the others. Toph joins the rest of the Avatar the Last Airbender gaang, so you can follow along with these free avatar crochet patterns and have your own adorable little crew!

What materials will you need?

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The colour codes in the brackets are for Stylecraft Special DK yarn, my preferred amigurumi yarn. You can use any DK weight yarn.

3.00mm crochet hook
Black yarn (1002 Black)
Green yarn (1826 Kelly Green)
Dark green yarn (1009 Bottle)
Yellow yarn (1263 Citron)
Beige yarn (1710 Stone)
Cream yarn (1835 Buttermilk)
Black thread
Stuffing
2 x 8.00mm safety eyes
Scissors
Pins

When finished, your doll should be about 17.5cm (or about 12 inches) tall. Your doll may have slightly different dimensions depending on the hook, yarn and your crocheting tension.

Quick reference for beginners

Check out some of the tutorials below if you get stuck, or want a refresher, on any of the stitches we use in this pattern! All of my human dolls, but particularly the detailed ones like Avatar characters, can be a bit tricky for beginners. So take it slow, and take a break if you find yourself getting frustrated!

If you get stuck anywhere else, check out the FAQ.

Toph – The last Airbender avatar crochet patterns free

HEAD

row 1: (in Beige) MR 6sc (6)
row 2: [ inc ]x 6 (12)
row 3: [ inc, sc ]x 6 (18)
row 4: [ sc, dec, sc ]x 6 (24)
row 5: [ inc, sc 3 ]x 6 (30)
row 6: [ sc 2, dec, sc 2 ]x 6 (36)
rows 7-12: sc 36 (36)
row 13: [ sc 2, dec, sc 2 ]x 6 (30)
row 14: [ dec, sc 3 ]x 6 (24)
row 15: [ sc, dec, sc ]x 6 (18)

Finish off, leaving a tail approximately 20cm or 7.5 inches. Insert your safety eyes between rows 9 and 10, with approximately 5 stitches between them. Stuff firmly. Embroider the mouth using a few threads of black embroidery or cross-stitch thread.

TIP You can also use yarn to sew on the mouth, though it makes it a bit thicker. For a more expressive or detailed mouth, try felt.

HAIR CAP

row 1: (in Black) MR 6sc (6)
row 2: [ inc ]x 6 (12)
row 3: [ inc, sc ]x 6 (18)
row 4: [ sc, inc, sc ]x 6 (24)
row 5: [ inc, sc 3 ]x 6 (30)
row 6: [ sc 2, inc, sc 2 ]x 6 (36)
rows 7-12: sc 36 (36)

Finish off, leaving a tail approximately 20cm or 7.5 inches. Use the tail to attach the wig cap to the stuffed head. I don’t go through every stitch of the wig cap, it only needs to be secured in 4 or 5 places to hold properly.

TIP Depending on the yarn you use for the head and hair, you may need more than 12 rows, or less than 12 rows to find the right fit for the wig cap. Adjust as needed.

EARS

row 1: (in Beige) ch 3 (3)
row 2: ch 1, turn, sl st, sc, sl st (3)

Finish off, leaving a tail approximately 12cm or 5 inches.

Next I use pins to position the ears, and then use the tails to attach them. I try to give them a little curve, like real ears would have. The top of the ear should be in line with the middle of the eye, and about 5 stitches away from the eye, or wherever it meets the edge of the wig cap.

HAIR INSERT

row 1: (in Black) ch 18 (18)
row 2: ch 1, turn, sc 18 (18)
rows 3-4: ch 2, turn, dc 18 (18)

Finish off, leaving enough of a tail to sew onto the head later. We’re basically making a beehive hairdo team.

HEADBAND

row 1: (in Yellow) ch 18 (18)
row 2: (in Green) sc 7, hdc, dc 2, hdc, sc 7 (18)

Finish off, leaving enough of a tail to sew onto the head later.

SIDE PUFFS (make 2)

row 1: (in Cream) ch 2 (2)
row 2: (all in the second chain from the hook) sc, dc 3, sl st

Finish off, leaving enough of a tail to sew onto the headband later.

HAIR

Now that we have all of the pieces we need to finish off the head, let’s move onto embroidering the hair. To start with, I pin the headband in place, so that both of the ends sit just behind the ears. We don’t want to fully attach it yet, because it’s easier to embroider the hair underneath it and then slide it over to sit on top before securing it in place.

So, pin the headband on, and then take a length of black yarn onto your yarn needle and start embroidering the fringe. I learnt this technique from Owlishly, who has a great tutorial on it over here: https://owlishly.typepad.com/owlishly/2007/08/amigurumi-hair.html

Black hair can be difficult to photograph, but hopefully you can see what I’m doing in these pictures. The fringe is split into three sections – a chunk that falls in between the eyes, and then two that go down past the ears on either side. One trick when looking at the way natural hair falls, is that it all spills down from a central part, so for the fringe, all of your hair should come back to basically the same spot at the top of the head.

Once the fringe is finished, you can take the tails of the headband and use them to sew it in place so it doesn’t move anymore.

Then, take the hair insert, fold it in half, and place it a row or so behind the headband. Use the tails to sew it into place so it doesn’t move.

Take another length of black yarn onto your yarn needle, and now we’re ready to embroider the rest of the hair. It should come out from underneath the headband, over the insert and down to the bottom of the wig cap. Keep doing this across the entire head until all of the wig cap is covered, and you’ll end up with Toph’s neat hair-do.

The last thing left to do to finish off the head is pin the little side puffs into place, and then use the tails to sew them on securely, either side of the headband, just behind the ears. Done!

ARMS (make 2)

row 1: (in Beige) MR 6 (6)
row 2: [ inc, sc 2 ]x 2 (8)
rows 3-4: sc 8 (8)
row 5: sc 3, 4sc popcorn, sc 4 (8)
row 6: sc 8 (8)
rows 7-9: (in Dark Green) sc 8 (8)
row 10-12: (in Beige) sc 8 (8)
row 13-15: (in Green) sc 8 (8)

The arms are so small there’s no need for stuffing. Leave a tail approximately 20cm or 7.5 inches long and finish off.

TIP The popcorn stitch in the arm is the thumb. If it’s a bit tricky or you prefer straight arms, simply replace it with a sc.

ARM DETAILING

For the arms and the legs we want to pick up some rows. If you’ve never picked up rows on a closed piece before, see the section on picking up stitches in the tutorials.

Sleeve

row 1: (in Green) pick up a row between rows 13 & 14 (8)
row 2: sc (8)

Wrist cuff

row 1: (in Green) pick up a row between rows 7 & 8 (8)
row 2: sc 8 (8)

Top wrist cuff

row 1: (in Yellow) pick up a row between rows 9 & 10 (8)

And you can see the finished arm vs original arm pictured.

SKIRT (make 2)

row 1: (in Cream) ch 5 (5)
rows 2-6: ch 1, turn, sc 5 (5)

Finish off, leaving a tail long enough to sew onto the body later. Thread the other tail onto a yarn needle and weave into the skirt to hide it, then trim so that it becomes invisible.

LEGS

row 1: (in Beige) MR 6 (6)
row 2: [ inc ]x 6 (12)
row 3: [ inc, sc ]x 6 (18)
row 4: BLO sc 18 (18)
rows 5-7: sc 18 (18)
row 8: (in Dark Green) sc 3, dec 6, sc 3 (12)
rows 9-10: sc 12 (12)
rows 11-14: (in Beige) sc 12 (12)
rows 15-17: (in Green) sc 12 (12)

Finish off the first leg. Leave the second leg on the hook. This will make it easier to join.

And like we did for the arms, we’re going to do some detailing.

Ankle cuff

row 1: (in Green) pick up a row between rows 8 & 9 (12)
row 2: sc 3, inc 6, sc 3 (18)
row 3: sc 18 (18)

Ankle band

row 1: (in Yellow) pick up a row between rows 10 & 11 (12)

Pants

row 1: (in Green) pick up a row between rows 15 & 16 (12)
row 2: sc 12 (12)

JOINING THE LEGS

Take the two legs and position them so that both feet are pointing correctly. I like to place two bobby pins or stitch markers across the stitches where the legs will join to make it a little easier to keep track of. Position both legs. Make sure the feet are pointing forwards, and the start of the round is at the back to avoid visible colour changes.

Join with two bobby pins, this is where you’ll go from one leg to the other.

Make one sc in the right leg in the stitch the bobby pin marks. The next sc will be on the left leg, in the stitch that the bobby pin marks.

Do the same thing when you reach the next bobby pin. This is what it should look like after one round.

BODY

rows 1-2: (in Green) sc 24 (24)
row 3: [ sc 3, dec, sc 3 ]x 3 (21)
(at this point stuff the legs)
row 4: (in Dark Green) [ dec, sc 5 ]x 3 (18)
row 5: FLO sc 18 (18)
row 6: (in Cream) [ inc, sc 2 ]x 6 (24)
row 7: sc 24 (24)
row 8: [ sc 3, dec, sc 3 ]x 3 (21)
row 9: [ dec, sc 5 ]x 3 (18)
row 10: [ sc 2, dec, sc 2 ]x 3 (15)
row 11: [ dec, sc 3 ]x 3 (12)
row 12: sc 12 (12)
row 13: (in Beige) [ sc, inc ]x 6 (18)

Finish off and stuff the rest of the body.

TIP Stuff the legs before beginning the decreases. Make sure it’s not stuffed too much. You should be able to press the bottom of the feet in and have the doll stand.

Putting it all together

Now we’ve crocheted all the pieces it’s time to attach them! I start with the arms and the skirt. I like to pin them in place to get an idea of where they should sit, and then use the tails to sew them onto the body. The skirt should simply be whipstitched, so that every stitch is attached for a neat finish. And the arms are attached as a flattened piece. Next, take a length of yellow yarn and embroider the dots on the belt around the waist.

Then, finally, attach the head. There should have been 18 stitches in the last round of the head and the body, so they match up evenly. Simply align the head, and whipstitch closed. Sometimes I get halfway and then realise the head is off-centre. That’s fine, just undo the stitches and move it right or left as needed.

Congratulations, you’re done!

Other free avatar crochet patterns in the series

Teamwork makes the dream work right? The rest of the Avatar Gaang is free on the blog as well. Check out the Avatar: The Last Airbender collections for more patterns from this series! Don’t forget to tag @53stitches on Instagram or Tumblr if you share your work online, I love to see your creations!