Next in the Sailor Moon collection is Sailor Venus! The older I get the more I love Sailor Venus, her personality was not at all what I expected when she was first introduced as a character in the anime, but that made it more fun! Enjoy this free Sailor Venus crochet pattern, to round out the Sailor Scouts collection. And don’t forget to check out the two versions of Artemis we have on the blog: a smaller cat shaped version, and a bigger stylised version.
You can purchase an ad-free PDF of this pattern over on my Ravelry, and if you do a huge thank-you in advance for your wonderful support!
What materials will you need?
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- 3.00 mm crochet hook
- 2 x 8.00mm safety eyes
- Yarn needle
- Scissors
- Stitch markers
- Polyester fiberfill or some other stuffing material
- Orange yarn (Stylecraft Special DK – 1711 Spice)
- Beige yarn (Stylecraft Special DK – 1710 Stone)
- White yarn (Stylecraft Special DK – 1001 White)
- Yellow yarn (Stylecraft Special DK – 1263 Citron)
- Yellow/gold yarn (Stylecraft Special DK – 1856 Dandelion)
- 9mm width navy blue ribbon
- 9mm width yellow ribbon
- Yellow felt
- Fabric glue
There are affiliate links in the brackets next to the colours for the exact yarn I used in this project, but any DK weight yarn will do!
Quick reference for beginners
Check out some of the below tutorials if you get stuck on any of the stitches or techniques
- How to read patterns
- Magic ring
- Single crochet
- Increase
- Decrease
- How to change colours
- Attaching amigurumi limbs
- Chain
- Back loop only
- Front loop only
- Popcorn stitch
If you get stuck anywhere else, check out the FAQ or the tutorials page.
Sailor Venus free crochet pattern
Head
1. (in Beige) MR 6 (6)
2. [ inc ]x 6 (12)
3. [ inc, sc ]x 6 (18)
4. sc, inc, [ sc 2, inc ]x 5, sc (24)
5. [ inc, sc 3 ]x 6 (30)
6. sc 2, inc, [ sc 4, inc ]x 5, sc 2 (36)
7-12. sc 36 (36)
13. sc 2, dec, [ sc 4, dec ]x 5, sc 2 (30)
14. [ dec, sc 3 ]x 6 (24)
15. sc, dec, [ sc 2, dec ]x 5, sc (18)
Insert safety eyes between rows 9 and 10, with approximately 5 stitches between them. Leave tail for sewing, finish off and stuff firmly. Stitch on the mouth using a few threads of black embroidery or cross-stitch thread. Yarn works as well but leaves the mouth a bit thick.
Hair
1. (in Yellow) MR 6 (6)
2. [ inc ]x 6 (12)
3. [ inc, sc ]x 6 (18)
4. sc, inc, [ sc 2, inc ]x 5, sc (24)
5. [ inc, sc 3 ]x 6 (30)
6. sc 2, inc, [ sc 4, inc ]x 5, sc 2 (36)
7-12. sc 36 (36)
Finish off, leaving a tail to attach to head. You may find you don’t need 12 rows, or maybe you need more. It depends on the head and your yarn. Just add or delete rows as needed.
Attach the wig cap to the head using the tail. You only need to secure it in a few places for it to remain on so no need to be overly thorough. Next take a length of gold yarn and a length of orange yarn. Embroider on the tiara using the gold, and then the gem in the centre of the tiara using the orange. Use what’s left of the tail of the hair cap to embroider the fringe, or if there is none left take a length of yellow yarn and use that.
The next part is slightly tricky. Sailor Venus has long hair that for the most part is loose and goes straight down, however at the side she has parts pulled back into a small ponytail held by a ribbon at the back of her hair. The easiest and most secure way to replicate this is to first fill the head with the long loose hair, securing it on the way down underneath stitches on the wig cap, these stitches will make the line that we’ll later cover up with the ‘pulled back’ hair.
I’ve tried to include a lot of pictures to demonstrate this process. The first picture above shows going underneath a stitch on the wig cap from where the part or root of the hair is. Pull the yarn through so that it is tight. The second picture shows the trip back up to the root of the hair, going underneath another stitch again. Instead of pulling this piece tight, you want to leave a loop that is a long as you want the hair to be (this is shown in the third picture above).
You’ll end up with hair that should look something like the pictures above. Next we’re going to take the yarn from the sides of the head and move it towards the back, covering up the stitches we’ve gone under to make the hair look more seamless. Then the last step is to take a length of ribbon (15-16cm or 6 inches will be plenty, I use one that has a 9mm width), tie it into a bow, and secure it over the hair.
Then cut the loops and the hair and head should be finished! It might need a bit of a trim but I usually wait to do this until the head is attached so I can have a better idea of how the hair sits.
Arms (make 2)
1. (in White) MR 6 (6)
2. [ inc, sc 2 ]x 2 (8)
3-4. sc 8 (8)
5. sc 3, 4sc popcorn, sc 4 (8)
6-9. sc 8 (8)
10-15. (in Beige) sc 8 (8)
TIP The popcorn stitch in the arm is the thumb. If you prefer straight arms, just replace it with a sc.
No need for stuffing, leave tail for sewing and finish off. Take a length of orange yarn and embroider it so that it goes three times around where the colour changes from white to beige (between rows 9 and 10). See pictures further below.
Shoes (make 2)
1. (in Red) MR 6 (6)
2. [ inc ]x 6 (12)
3. [ sc 3, inc ]x 3 (15)
4. BLO sc 15 (15)
5-6. sc 15 (15)
7. sc 3, dec 3, sc 6 (12)
(on the second shoe row 7 is:
7. sc 6, dec, 3, sc 3 (12)
this gives a left and right shoe)
8. ch 12, skip 10, sl st 2 (i.e. after ch 12, sl st into the 11th stitch of the previous round)
Finish off.
Legs (make 2)
1. (in Beige) MR 5 (5)
2. [ inc ]x 5 (10)
3-13. sc 10 (10)
14. [ inc, sc 4 ]x 2 (12)
Finish off. No tail is necessary as they aren’t sewn onto anything.
Body
Take the two legs and position them so that the feet are pointing correctly, I like to place two bobby pins in the stitches where the legs will join to make it easier to manage. Make a slip knot, insert hook in the stitch you are going to begin the round with, make sure to begin the round at the back of the doll so that the colour changes are kept out of sight. Put the slip knot on the hook, and pull it through. The next stitch will be a regular single crochet and will begin the round.
1-2. (in White) sc 24 (24)
3. sc 3, dec, [ sc 6, dec ]x 2, sc 3 (21)
(at this point stuff the legs – make sure the boots still fit)
4. [ dec, sc 5 ]x 3 (18)
5. FLO sc 18 (18)
6. [ inc, sc 2 ]x 6 (24)
7. sc 24 (24)
8. sc 3, dec [ sc 6, dec ]x 2, sc 3 (21)
9. [ dec, sc 5 ]x 3 (18)
10. sc 2, dec, [ sc 4, dec ]x 2, sc 2 (15)
11. (in Beige) [dec, sc 3 ]x 3 (12)
12. sc 12 (12)
13. [ sc, inc ]x 6 (18)
Stuff the rest of the body.
Skirt
This part can be difficult. You want to pick up 21 stitches, in the third row of the white rows. In between rows 3-4 of the body. There will be one stitch you pick up which goes from one row to the one above it, I usually make this stitch the first one I pick up, and I try and position it so that it is at the back and lines up with the colour change unevenness. I’ve put this process below with pictures and a matching description. I’m right handed and so I find it easier to turn the doll upside down, inserting the hook from right to left to start.
1. (in Orange) Pick up 21 stitches
2. sc 21 (21)
3-5. [ sc, inc ] x (keep repeating all the way around. The exact number of stitches isn’t important, just mark the beginning of the round)
6. BLO sc all around ()
Finish off, leaving a tail. The skirt will seem too big and probably curve upwards. Taking the tail, pin it to the legs at even spaces, making the skirt wavy.
Attach the arms. I like to pin them in place to get an idea of where they should be placed, then they are attached as a flattened piece using the tail. After the arms are attached take a piece of white yarn, and coming out underneath the arm (in the armpit) wrap it around the shoulder three times, doing the same to the other side. This is the finished result:
Collar
1. (in Orange) ch 9
2. (start in second chain from hook) sc 8 (8)
3-4. ch 1, turn, sc 8 (8)
5-9. ch 1, turn, sc 2 (2)
10. ch 1, turn, sc (1)
Finish off, leave a tail. Then repeat rows 5-10 on the other side of the collar, picking up stitches from the outer edge. Once finished, embroider on the white stripes.
You could also choose to make the collar out of felt or material.
Stitch the collar into place using the tails. I pull them both through a stitch in the centre of her chest and then use the end to pin down the back which tends to curve.
Cut out a small heart out of orange felt. Next you want to take two lengths of navy blue ribbon about 9mm in width: one approximately 6 inches long (15-16cm) and the other approximately 8 inches (20-21cm). Both need to be tied into bows. The smaller one will be in the centre of the chest and the larger one the centre of her lower back, where the skirt begins.
Attach the bows so that they don’t move and don’t come undone when they are pulled. I do this using a combination of glue and thread. I then glue the yellow circle in the centre.
All that’s left is to attach the head. There should have been 18 stitches in the last round of the head and the body, so they match up evenly. Simple align the head properly, and whipstitch closed. Trim the hair if necessary.
Well done, you’re finished! The Sailor Scouts are some of the more complicated patterns to complete but I love the end result so much. The Sailor Moon version was the first doll I made where I would walk past and stop to admire how cute the doll was.
Other patterns in this series
I’m in the process of converting my other Sailor Moon patterns into blog posts, but if you can’t wait, check out the bundle I have over on Ravelry where you can get patterns for all of the Sailor Senshi and Tuxedo Mask! If you make your own and you share on Instagram or Tumblr, don’t forget to tag @53stitches so I can check it out ☺️
