Morrigan

December 7, 2024

I tend to enjoy cranky characters but Morrigan definitely has some of the best zingers and sense of humour – her sarcasm is top tier. I love seeing her appear across the Dragon Age series and have always loved her character design as well. My favourite Origins party always had Morrigan and Alistair snipping at each other the whole time! This free Morrigan crochet pattern is the perfect addition to your amigurumi Dragon Age collection!

What materials will you need?

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The colour codes in the brackets are for Stylecraft Special DK yarn, my preferred amigurumi yarn. You can use any DK weight yarn.

3.00mm crochet hook
Beige yarn (1710 Stone)
Black yarn (1002 Black)
Maroon yarn (1123 Claret or 1061 Plum for a colour that leans more purple than red)
Gold yarn (1856 Dandelion)
Navy blue yarn (1854 French navy)
Green-ish yarn – scrap (1725 Sage)
Black felt
Black thread
Stuffing
2 x 8.00mm safety eyes
Scissors
Pins
Fabric glue

When finished, your doll should be about 17.5cm (or about 12 inches) tall. Your doll may have slightly different dimensions depending on the hook, yarn and your crocheting tension.

Quick reference for beginners

Check out some of the tutorials below if you get stuck, or want a refresher, on any of the stitches we use in this pattern! All of my human dolls, but particularly the detailed ones like Dragon Age characters, can be a bit tricky for beginners. So take it slow, and take a break if you find yourself getting frustrated!

If you get stuck anywhere else, check out the FAQ.

Morrigan – Dragon age free crochet patterns

HEAD

row 1: (in Beige) MR 6sc (6)
row 2: [ inc ]x 6 (12)
row 3: [ inc, sc ]x 6 (18)
row 4: [ sc, inc, sc ]x 6 (24)
row 5: [ inc, sc 3 ]x 6 (30)
row 6: [ sc 2, inc, sc 2 ]x 6 (36)
rows 7-12: sc 36 (36)
row 13: [ sc 2, dec, sc 2 ]x 6 (30)
row 14: [ dec, sc 3 ]x 6 (24)
row 15: [ sc, dec, sc ]x 6 (18)

Finish off with a slip stitch in the next stitch, and leave a tail approximately 20cm or 7.5 inches. Insert your safety eyes between rows 9 & 10, with about 5 stitches between them.

HAIR CAP

row 1: (in Black) MR 6sc (6)
row 2: [ inc ]x 6 (12)
row 3: [ inc, sc ]x 6 (18)
row 4: [ sc, inc, sc ]x 6 (24)
row 5: [ inc, sc 3 ]x 6 (30)
row 6: [ sc 2, inc, sc 2 ]x 6 (36)
rows 7-12: sc 36 (36)

Finish off, leaving a tail approximately 20cm or 7.5 inches. Use the tail to attach the wig cap to the stuffed head. I don’t go through every stitch of the wig cap, it only needs to be secured in 4 or 5 places to hold properly.

TIP Depending on the yarn you use for the head and hair, you may need more than 12 rows, or less than 12 rows to find the right fit for the wig cap. Adjust as needed.

BUN

row 1: (in Black) MR 6sc (6)
row 2: inc 6 (12)
row 3: [ inc, sc ]x 6 (18)
rows 4-5: sc 18 (18)

Finish off, leaving a tail approximately 20cm or 7.5 inches long.

EARS

row 1: (in Beige) ch 3 (3)
row 2: ch 1, turn, sl st, sc, sl st (3)

Finish off, leaving a tail. Next I use pins to position the ears, and then use the tails to attach them. I try to give them a little curve, like real ears would have. The top of the ear should be in line with the middle of the eye, and about 5 stitches away from the eye, or wherever it meets the edge of the wig cap. Sew the mouth on using Maroon/Purple yarn.

Embroidering the hair

Embroidering the hair can be a bit tricky, so I’ve tried to include plenty of pictures. I also find it helps to pull up a couple of reference pictures of the hairstyle I’m trying to create – looking at what hair does in real life can help a lot. Dark yarn can be difficult to photograph, but hopefully you can see what’s going on here!

Owlishly has a great tutorial on embroidering hair, and is where I originally learnt this technique: http://owlishly.typepad.com/owlishly/2007/08/amigurumi-hair.html

First we’re going to attach the bun. I pin it in place, and then once I’m sure it’s centered I use the tail to securely attach it. It’s up to you whether or not you want to stuff the bun – I usually don’t because I find the stuffing gets caught when I’m embroidering the hair and the bun holds it’s shape well enough on it’s own. Once the bun is attached, start embroidering the hair – I start with the fringe.

Once the fringe is done, I start fleshing out the hair. As with real hair, it is all being pulled towards the bun in the centre – that makes this hair style a little easier than some others. I fill in a sort of outline at even spaces around the wig cap, and then basically keep going around the circle, filling in the gaps.

Now the only part of the wig cap that’s uncovered is the bun. This part can get a little tricky because it gets quite tight when you’re pulling yarn through the same location. We’re doing the same trick that we just did on the head, the hair will go from the edge of the bun, to the centre (Morrigan’s bun is a donut bun, so it all collects in the middle).

Create the outline again, and then fill in. I’ve tried to brighten these picture because it’s quite difficult to see clearly – it fades the colour a little but makes the yarn more obvious.

Almost done. The last step of the hair is to create the loose pieces of hair she has poking out from the bun. For this, I pull the yarn through the head, out the edge of the bun, and then back in close to where it came out – but this time leaving a loose loop, big enough for my thumb to fit in.

Create a couple of these loops, then when done, take a pair of scissors and cut the loops open – trim them if needed and voila! There are loose strands poking up over her head.

RIGHT ARM

row 1: (in Beige) MR 6sc (6)
row 2: [ inc, sc 2 ]x 2 (8)
row 3: sc 8 (8)
row 4: (in Black) sc 8 (8)
row 5: (still in Black) sc 3, (change to Beige) 4sc popcorn, (change to Black) sc 4 (8)
rows 6-7: sc 8 (8)
rows 8-10: (in Beige) sc 8 (8)
rows 11-12: (in Black) sc (8)
rows 13-15: (in Beige) sc 8 (8)

The colour changes in row 5 give us the beige thumb.

LEFT ARM

row 1: (in Beige) MR 6sc (6)
row 2: [ inc, sc 2 ]x 2 (8)
rows 3-4: sc 8 (8)
row 5: sc 3, 4sc popcorn, sc 4 (8)
rows 6-15: (in Black) sc 8 (8)

The arms are so small there’s no need for stuffing. Leave a tail approximately 20cm or 7.5 inches long and finish off.

Take some gold yarn, and pick up 8 stitches between row 6 and 7 of both arms for the gold bracelets.

TIP The popcorn stitch in the arm is the thumb. If it’s a bit tricky or you prefer straight arms, simply replace it with a sc.

LEGS (make 2)

row 1: (in Black) MR 6 (6)
row 2: [ inc ]x 6 (12)
row 3: [ inc, sc ]x 6 (18)
row 4: BLO sc 18 (18)
rows 5-7: sc 18 (18)
row 8: sc 2, dec 7, sc 2 (11)
rows 9-18: sc 11 (11)
row 19: inc, sc 10 (12)

Finish off the first leg. Leave the second leg on the hook. This will make it easier to join.

Take the two legs and position them so that both feet are pointing correctly. I like to place two bobby pins or stitch markers across the stitches where the legs will join to make it a little easier to keep track of. Position both legs. Make sure the feet are pointing forwards, and the start of the round is at the back to avoid visible colour changes.

Join with two bobby pins, this is where you’ll go from one leg to the other.

Make one sc in the right leg in the stitch the bobby pin marks. The next sc will be on the left leg, in the stitch that the bobby pin marks.

Do the same thing when you reach the next bobby pin. This is what it should look like after one round.

BODY

rows 1-2: (in Black) sc 24 (24)
row 3: [ sc 3, dec, sc 3 ]x 3 (21)
(at this point stuff the legs)
row 4: (in Beige) [ dec, sc 5 ]x 3 (18)
row 5: (in Maroon) FLO sc 18 (18)
row 6: sc 18 (18) * this row has 3 Beige stitches in the front middle (see below for more details)
row 7: (in Beige) sc 18 (18)
row 8: [ inc, sc 2 ]x 6 (24)
row 9: sc 24 (24)
row 10: [ sc 3, dec, sc 3 ]x 3 (21)
row 11: [ dec, sc 5 ]x 3 (18)
row 12: [ sc 2, dec, sc 2 ]x 3 (15)
row 13: [ dec, sc 3 ]x 3 (12)
row 14: sc 12 (12)
row 15: [ sc, inc ]x 6 (18)

Finish off and stuff the rest of the body.

* The row marked with this symbol has 3 beige stitches in it. Mark the stitch in the middle of the body with a bobby pin. The stitch on either side and the marked stitch will be in beige. The rest of the row is in Maroon.

TIP Stuff the legs before beginning the decreases. Make sure it’s not stuffed too much. You should be able to press the bottom of the feet in and have the doll stand.

SHIRT

row 1: (in Maroon) ch 36 (36)
row 2: slip st into 1st chain to join, sc 35 (35)

Finish off, and pull the tail through the next stitch to reduce the gap between the row heights. Do the same with the tail leftover from the start – this helps it to be a smoother circle.

SHOULDER FEATHER

row 1: (in Navy Blue) ch 4 (4)
row 2: ch 1, turn, sc 4 (4)

Finish off, leaving a tail for attaching to the shoulders later. Next, cut 8 lengths of the same dark blue yarn about 5 – 6cm (or 2 – 2.5 inches) long. Attach the lengths of yarn to the shoulder feathers using the latch-hook method (if you’re not sure what that is, you can see some more detailed pictures here: Eevee’s collar is attached the same way).

Then, once they’re attached and pulled tightly to make sure they’re secure, take a pet brush or a thin-toothed comb and brush the yarn out until it’s nice and fuzzy, and looks like soft feathers. Once it’s been brushed out, I usually trim it so it’s a more reasonable length and a little tidier.

Putting it all together

Attach the arms. I like to pin them in place to get an idea of where they should be placed, then they are attached as a flattened piece using the tail.

Once the arms are attached, embroider Morrigan’s bikini using black yarn. Then we’re going to embroider the necklace using gold yarn.

Embroider the gem in the middle of the necklace using green-ish yarn.

We’re going to cut the skirt out of black felt. I make up this shape as I go every time. But I’m usually imitating an upside down city skyline – with a bunch of buildings of different heights to create the textured belt Morrigan’s skirt has. Because it’s going around a circular waist, it also helps to give the top of the skirt a slightly curved shape. The smaller semi-circle is the extra fabric on Morrigan’s left hip. I glue these felt pieces on around the top.

Next, attach the feather to the left arm.

I pin the shirt in place and then sew it on using the tail where it’s been pinned – that helps it to stay in place.

Finally, attach the head. There should have been 18 stitches in the last round of the head and the body, so they match up evenly. Simply align the head, and whipstitch closed. Sometimes I get halfway and then realise the head is off-centre. That’s fine, just undo the stitches and move it right or left as needed.

Congratulations! You’ve finished!

Other free Dragon Age crochet patterns in the series

What’s Dragon Age without an exciting cast of characters? There are other Dragon Age crochet patterns that I’ve made and are slowly being added to the website for free! Checkout out the Dragon Age collection for more patterns from this series, and as I get more into Veilguard, hopefully some new companions to join the roster! Don’t forget to tag @53stitches on Instagram or Tumblr if you share your work online, I love to see your creations!