Pattern• Voltron

Allura

December 8, 2024

I never watched the original Voltron series so I don’t have the same nostalgia for it that some other viewers do, but I found the Netflix series to be a lo of fun! I also enjoy the challenge of turning some of these fiddly little costumes into a simplified but still recognisable crochet version. So if you’re interested in a fun challenging crochet project, and you’re also a Voltron enjoyer, then these free Voltron crochet patterns are a great match for you! To kick it off, we’re starting with Allura!

What materials will you need?

Note some of the links on this site are affiliate links. This means I get paid a small fee if you decide to purchase anything, at no extra cost to you. I will only ever link products I happily use myself.

The colour codes in the brackets are for Stylecraft Special DK yarn, my preferred amigurumi yarn. You can use any DK weight yarn.

When finished, your doll should be about 17.5cm (or about 12 inches) tall. Your doll may have slightly different dimensions depending on the hook, yarn and your crocheting tension.

Quick reference for beginners

Check out some of the tutorials below if you get stuck, or want a refresher, on any of the stitches we use in this pattern! All of my human dolls, but particularly the detailed ones like the Voltron characters, can be a bit tricky for beginners. So take it slow, and take a break if you find yourself getting frustrated!

If you get stuck anywhere else, check out the FAQ.

Princess Allura – Voltron free crochet patterns

HEAD

row 1: (in Tan) MR 6sc (6)
row 2: [ inc ]x 6 (12)
row 3: [ inc, sc ]x 6 (18)
row 4: [ sc, inc, sc ]x 6 (24)
row 5: [ inc, sc 3 ]x 6 (30)
row 6: [ sc 2, inc, sc 2 ]x 6 (36)
rows 7-12: sc 36 (36)
row 13: [ sc 2, dec, sc 2 ]x 6 (30)
row 14: [ dec, sc 3 ]x 6 (24)
row 15: [ sc, dec, sc ]x 6 (18)

Finish off with a slip stitch in the next stitch, and leave a tail approximately 20cm or 7.5 inches. Insert your safety eyes between rows 9 & 10, with about 5 stitches between them.

HAIR CAP

row 1: (in White) MR 6sc (6)
row 2: [ inc ]x 6 (12)
row 3: [ inc, sc ]x 6 (18)
row 4: [ sc, inc, sc ]x 6 (24)
row 5: [ inc, sc 3 ]x 6 (30)
row 6: [ sc 2, inc, sc 2 ]x 6 (36)
rows 7-12: sc 36 (36)

Finish off, leaving a tail approximately 20cm or 7.5 inches. Use the tail to attach the wig cap to the stuffed head. I don’t go through every stitch of the wig cap, it only needs to be secured in 4 or 5 places to hold properly. 

TIP Depending on the yarn you use for the head and hair, you may need more than 12 rows, or less than 12 rows to find the right fit for the wig cap. Adjust as needed. 

HAIR BUN

row 1: (in White) MR 6sc (6) 
row 2: inc 6 (12) 
row 3: [ inc, sc ]x 6 (18) 
rows 4-5: sc 18 (18) 

Finish off, leaving a tail approximately 20cm or 7.5 inches long.

EARS

row 1: (in Beige) ch 4 (4)
row 2: ch 1, turn, sl st, sc, hdc, sl st (4)

Finish off, leaving a tail approximately 12cm or 5 inches.

Next I use pins to position the ears, and then use the tails to attach them. I try to give them a little curve, like real ears would have. The top of the ear should be in line with the middle of the eye, and about 5 stitches away from the eye, or wherever it meets the edge of the wig cap.  

Because Allura’s ears are a bit longer, I will sometimes embroider a stitch to help it stay in position and closer to the head – sometimes only one ear will need this, as one will naturally curve towards the head while the other will curve away.

Embroidering the hair

Embroidering the hair can be a bit tricky, so I’ve tried to include plenty of pictures. I also find it helps to pull up a couple of reference pictures of the hairstyle I’m trying to create – looking at what hair does in real life can help a lot. White yarn can be difficult to photograph, but hopefully you can see what’s going on here!

Owlishly has a great tutorial on embroidering hair, and is where I originally learnt this technique: http://owlishly.typepad.com/owlishly/2007/08/amigurumi-hair.html 

First we’re going to attach the bun. I pin it in place and then once I’m sure it’s centered I use the tail to securely attach it, the same way we did with the wig cap. It’s up to you whether or not you want to stuff the bun – I usually don’t because I find the stuffing gets caught when I’m embroidering the hair and the bun holds it’s shape well enough on it’s own. Once the bun is attached, before moving onto the hair, I embroider the tiara / headband.

Take a length of light blue yarn and embroider a small dot in the center of the forehead. Next, take a length of gold yarn and embroider a “v” around the blue dot and then two lines from the edge of that “v” straight to the hairline. Then, take a length of pink yarn and embroider the chevron detail on the cheekbones.

Once the headband is done it’s time to get started on the hair. The first thing I do is the fringe, starting with the pieces on the side of the head. They’re usually easy to line up because you have the ears as a reference.

Then it’s time to move onto the body of the hair. As with real hair, it’s all being pulled towards the bun in the center – that makes this hair style a little easier than some others. Allura’s bun isn’t quite a donut bun – where it all gathers at one point, it kind of groups in a line – hopefully the pictures show what I mean by that. I usually start in the center and swap between moving towards the bottom of the bun or the top until the entirety of it is covered.

For the rest of the hair outside the bun, I put in some “outline” lines evenly to help make sure the hair is moving towards the centre and isn’t lopsided. Then you basically keep going around the circle, filling in the spaces.

Once you’ve filled in the bulk of the hair, I usually try to embroider some loose pieces from the top of the head, down towards the ear and then into the bun, to try and create the more obvious fringe shape she has.

ARMS (make 2)

row 1: (in Dark Grey) MR 6 (6) 
row 2: [ inc, sc 2 ]x 2 (8) 
rows 3-4: sc 8 (8) 
row 5: sc 3, 4sc popcorn, sc 4 (8) 
row 6: sc 8 (8)
row 7: (change to Pink) sc 8 (8)
rows 8-13: (change to White) sc 8 (8)
rows 14-15: (change to Dark Grey) sc 8 (8) 

The arms are so small there’s no need for stuffing. Leave a tail approximately 20cm or 7.5 inches long and finish off. To add the detailing, you’ll need black yarn, white yarn, pink yarn and pink felt. 

First take the black yarn, wrap a strand between rows 10 & 11. Take the pink yarn and embroider a line on the ‘back’ side of the hand between rows 7 & 8. Take the length of white yarn and outline the bottom half of the pink detailing we just added.

Next, cut a hexagon out of pink felt, and glue it in the ‘elbow’ spot of the arm. Finally, take a length of light blue yarn and embroider a stripe at the top of the shoulder, between the two grey rows.

TIP The popcorn stitch in the arm is the thumb. If it’s a bit tricky or you prefer straight arms, simply replace it with a sc.

LEGS (make 2)

row 1: (in Dark Grey) MR 6 (6) 
row 2: [ inc ]x 6 (12) 
row 3: [ inc, sc ]x 6 (18) 
row 4: BLO sc 18 (18) 
row 5: (change to White) sc 18 (18)
rows 6-7: sc 18 (18) 
row 8: (change to Pink) sc 3, dec 6, sc 3 (12) 
row 9: sc 12 (12)
rows 10-17: (change to White) sc 12 (12)

On the first leg only
rows 18-19: (change to White) sc 6, (change to Dark Grey) sc 6 (12)

On the second leg only
rows 18-19: (change to Dark Grey) sc 6, (change to White) sc 6 (12)

Finish off the first leg. Leave the second leg on the hook. This will make it easier to join. 

Take the two legs and position them so that both feet are pointing correctly. I like to place two bobby pins or stitch markers across the stitches where the legs will join to make it a little easier to keep track of. Position both legs. Make sure the feet are pointing forwards, and the start of the round is at the back to avoid visible colour changes.

Join with two bobby pins, this is where you’ll go from one leg to the other.
Make one sc in the right leg in the stitch the bobby pin marks. The next sc will be on the left leg, in the stitch that the bobby pin marks.
Do the same thing when you reach the next bobby pin. This is what it should look like after one round.

BODY

rows 1-2: (in Dark Grey) sc 24 (24) 
row 3: [ sc 3, dec, sc 3 ]x 3 (21) 
(at this point stuff the legs)
row 4: (change to White) [ dec, sc 5 ]x 3 (18)
row 5: (change to Dark Grey) FLO sc 18 (18) 
row 6: sc 18 (18)
row 7: [ inc, sc 2]x 6 (24)
row 8: (change to White) sc 24 (24)
row 9: [ sc 3, dec, sc 3 ]x 3 (21) 
row 10: [ dec, sc 5 ]x 3 (18) 
row 11: [ sc 2, dec, sc 2 ]x 3 (15) 
row 12: [ dec, sc 3 ]x 3 (12) 
row 13: sc 12 (12) 
row 14: (change to Tan) [ sc, inc ]x 6 (18) 

Finish off and stuff the rest of the body. 

TIP Stuff the legs before beginning the decreases. Make sure it’s not stuffed too much. You should be able to press the bottom of the feet in and have the doll stand. 

Putting it all together

Time detail the legs. First, take a length of light blue yarn, and embroider two stripes on either side of each leg, in the two rows underneath the dark grey section.

Next take a length of black yarn, and embroider a hexagon shape around the knee, and then a black stripe that goes around the back and joins both sides.

Take a length of pink yarn and outline the bottom half of the shape we just created. Then, cut out another pink hexagon out of felt and glue it in the empty space.

Next cut out four small rectangles from white felt, and four smaller rectangles to fit inside those in light blue. Glue the light blue inside the white rectangles, and then glue one of those to each of those to either side of the feet at an angle.

Now that we’re done with the detailing on the legs, time to move onto the waist! You’ll need two white rectangles, two smaller grey rectangles glued to the inside of those. A grey diamond shape, and a smaller light blue diamond shape glued to the inside.

The diamond goes in the middle of the belt, and the rectangles goes either side.

Attach the arms. I like to pin them in place to get an idea of where they should be placed, then they are attached as a flattened piece using the tail. Once the arm is attached, take a length of pink yarn, and wrap it around the shoulder.

Next, cut the chest zig-zag shape out of pink felt. The exact size and shape of this section will depend on the doll. It should touch the shoulders and point to the middle of the chest. Glue it in place. Take a length of dark grey yarn and embroider the notch in the middle of the neck.

At the same time, cut the backpack out of pink and grey felt. The two shapes should join and match each other as pictured. When glued to the back, they should fit snugly together, and there should be space between the shoulders and the edges of the pack.

Phew! There is a lot of detailing in those flight suits. Look at all those felt pieces laid out. Pat yourself on the back for making it this far! We’re almost done.

Finally, attach the head. There should have been 18 stitches in the last round of the head and the body, so they match up evenly. Simply align the head, and whipstitch closed. Sometimes I get halfway and then realise the head is off-centre. That’s fine, just undo the stitches and move it right or left as needed. 

Congratulations! You’ve finished!

Other free Voltron crochet patterns in the series

How are we supposed to form Voltron without the rest of the crew? I’ve made all of the pilots and they are slowly being added to the website for free! Checkout out the Voltron collection for more patterns from this series! Once you’ve made one you know you’ll have the skills to make the rest. Don’t forget to tag @53stitches on Instagram or Tumblr if you share your work online, I love to see your creations!

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