With the recent release of Dragon Age: The Veilguard I’ve been revisiting my Dragon Age crochet patterns and trying to add them onto the website for free! I thought Solas was the perfect character to start with, since he’s such a player in DATV as well as Inquisition. I think he’s such an interesting character and although I’m still early in the new game I’m excited to see where his story goes! my dragon age crochet collection tends to be made up of intricate character designs, but Solas is one of the more simple ones and a perfect project to ease them!
What materials will you need?
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The colour codes in the brackets are for Stylecraft Special DK yarn, my preferred amigurumi yarn. You can use any DK weight yarn.
- 3.00mm crochet hook
- Beige yarn (1710 Stone)
- Butter/cream yarn (1835 Buttermilk)
- Brown yarn (1054 Walnut)
- Green yarn (1824 Cypress)
- Brown felt
- Black thread
- Stuffing
- 2 x 8.00mm safety eyes
- Scissors
- Pins
- Fabric glue
When finished, your doll should be about 17.5cm (or about 12 inches) tall. Your doll may have slightly different dimensions depending on the hook, yarn and your crocheting tension.
Quick reference for beginners
Check out some of the tutorials below if you get stuck, or want a refresher, on any of the stitches we use in this pattern! All of my human dolls, but particularly the detailed ones like Dragon Age characters, can be a bit tricky for beginners. So take it slow, and take a break if you find yourself getting frustrated!
- How to read patterns
- Magic ring
- Single crochet
- Increase
- Decrease
- How to change colours
- Chain
- Attaching amigurumi limbs
- Back loop only
- Slip stitch
- Popcorn stitch
If you get stuck anywhere else, check out the FAQ.
Solas – Dragon age free crochet patterns
HEAD
row 1: (in Beige) MR 6sc (6)
row 2: [ inc ]x 6 (12)
row 3: [ inc, sc ]x 6 (18)
row 4: [ sc, inc, sc ]x 6 (24)
row 5: [ inc, sc 3 ]x 6 (30)
row 6: [ sc 2, inc, sc 2 ]x 6 (36)
rows 7-13: sc 36 (36)
row 14: [ sc 2, dec, sc 2 ]x 6 (30)
row 15: [ dec, sc 3 ]x 6 (24)
row 16: [ sc, dec, sc ]x 6 (18)
Finish off with a slip stitch in the next stitch, and leave a tail approximately 20cm or 7.5 inches. Insert your safety eyes between rows 9 & 10, with about 5 stitches between them. Stuff firmly. Embroider the mouth using a few threads of black embroidery or cross stitch thread.
TIP: You can also use yarn to sew on the mouth, but it will make it a bit thicker. For a more expressive or detailed mouth, try felt.
EARS
row 1: (in Beige) ch 4 (4)
row 2: ch 1, turn, sl st, sc, hdc, sl st (4)
Finish off, leaving a tail approximately 12cm or 5 inches.
Next I use pins to position the ears, and then use the tails to attach them. I try to give them a little curve, like real ears would have. The top of the ear should be in line with the middle of the eye, and about 5 stitches away from the eye.
ARM (make 2)
row 1. (in Beige) MR 6 (6)
row 2. [ inc, sc 2 ]x 2 (8)
rows 3-4. sc 8 (8)
row 5. sc 3, 4sc popcorn, sc 4 (8)
row 6. sc 8 (8)
rows 7-15. (in Cream) sc 8 (8)
The arms are so small there’s no need for stuffing. Leave a tail approximately 20cm or 7.5 inches long and finish off.
TIP The popcorn stitch in the arm is the thumb. If it’s a bit tricky or you prefer straight arms, simply replace it with a sc.
LEGS (make 2)
row 1: (in Brown) MR 6sc (6)
row 2: [ inc ]x 6 (12)
row 3: [ inc, sc ]x 6 (18)
row 4: BLO sc 18 (18)
rows 5-7: sc 6, (in Beige) sc 6, (in Brown) sc 6 (18)
row 8: sc 3, dec 2, (in Beige) dec 2, (in Brown) dec 2, sc 3 (12)
rows 9-11: sc 12 (12)
rows 12-19: (in Green) sc 12 (12)
Finish off the first leg. Leave the second leg on the hook. This will make it easier to join.
Take the two legs and position them so that both feet are pointing correctly. I like to place two bobby pins or stitch markers across the stitches where the legs will join to make it a little easier to keep track of. Position both legs. Make sure the feet are pointing forwards, and the start of the round is at the back to avoid visible colour changes.
BODY
rows 1-2. (in Green) sc 24 (24)
rows 3-7. (in Cream) sc 24 (24)
(stuff the legs before beginning the decreases)
row 8. [ sc 3, dec, sc 3 ]x 3 (21)
row 9. [ dec, sc 5 ]x 3 (18)
row 10. [ sc 2, dec, sc 2 ]x 3 (15)
row 11. [ dec, sc 3 ]x 3 (12)
row 12. (in Green) sc 12 (12)
row 13. (in Beige) [ sc, inc ]x 6 (18)
Finish off and stuff the rest of the body.
TIP Stuff the legs before beginning the decreases. Make sure it’s not stuffed too much. You should be able to press the bottom of the feet in and have the doll stand.
SHIRT FLAPS (make 2)
row 1. (in Cream) ch 8 (8)
rows 2-3. ch 1, turn, sc 8 (8)
row 4. dec, sc 4, dec (6)
rows 5-8. sc 6 (6)
Finish off, leaving a tail long enough to attach to the body later. Hide the other tail.
Putting it all together
Take a length of green yarn and embroider the triangular of his undershirt that’s visible. Then take a length of brown yarn and embroider an outline around it – around the neck and the triangle we just embroidered. Next, we’ll sew the shirt flaps onto the body – I pin them in place to make sure they’re centered and even, and then whipstitch it on.
Attach the arms. I like to pin those in place first as well to get an idea of where they should be placed, and then they are attached as a flattened piece using the tail.
The belt length may change depending on your doll – I crochet a chain of approximately 53 stitches (ha!) – that way there’s enough to wrap around the body twice and have a little bit leftover for the dangling part. Use one of the tails to secure the belt in a couple of places, and hide the tail at the other end – this end should be the one that overlaps. There should be a slight gap on the left hand side of the body (the dolls left) and it overlaps on the right hand side – as in the above picture.
Cut the shape of Solas’ necklace out of brown felt – I read somewhere that it’s a wolf’s jawbone, the shape is kind of weird to describe. Glue it in place and embroider the string in brown yarn.
Finally, attach the head. There should have been 18 stitches in the last round of the head and the body, so they match up evenly. Simply align the head, and whipstitch closed. Sometimes I get halfway and then realise the head is off-centre. That’s fine, just undo the stitches and move it right or left as needed. Congratulations, you’re done!
Other free Dragon Age crochet patterns in the series
What’s Dragon Age without an exciting cast of characters? There are other Dragon Age crochet patterns that I’ve made and are slowly being added to the website for free! Checkout out the Dragon Age collection for more patterns from this series, and as I get more into Veilguard, hopefully some new companions to join the roster! Don’t forget to tag @53stitches on Instagram or Tumblr if you share your work online, I love to see your creations!
