Each stitch in a row is abbreviated:
ch = chain
st = stitch / stitches
sl st = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
MR 6 = magic ring with 6 single crochets worked into it
inc = increase, or sc 2 in the same stitch
dec = invisible decrease
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet
4sc popcorn = popcorn stitch with 4sc worked into it
BLO = back loop only
FLO = front loop only
[ sc, inc ]x 2 = repeat what’s in the square brackets two times => sc, inc, sc, inc
You can check out a photo tutorial of all of these stitches by heading over to the tutorial section
Each row of a pattern will be made up of the above abbreviations, followed by the number of those stitches. Each row follows the same format:
ROW NUMBER. stitches in the row (number of stitches when row is completed)
e.g. for the following pattern:
1. MR 6 (6) – 1st row. magic ring with 6 single crochets worked into it. Should have 6 stitches in the row at the end
2. inc 6 (12) – 2nd row. increase 6 times – i.e. 2sc in each of the 6 stitches. Should have 12 stitches in the row at the end
3. [ sc, inc ]x 6 (18) – 3rd row. sc, inc – repeat this pattern 6 times. i.e. sc, inc, sc, inc, sc, inc, sc, inc, sc, inc, sc, inc. Should have 18 stitches in the row at the end.
4-6. sc 18 (18) – 4th, 5th and 6th rows. sc in each of the 18 stitches. There will be 18 at the end of each row, since we’re not increasing at all.
Hopefully that makes it a bit clearer!
There are a couple of other techniques in the tutorials section – colour changes, picking up stitches, attaching limbs, etc.
Each of the patterns has a rating from 1 – 4 of how difficult I think it is, and you can filter by this rating on the pattern page. That means you can find the easiest patterns here.
That said, I would recommend the Luna and Artemis pattern if you’re just starting – they’re both worked in a single colour, so there aren’t any colour changes. And the pattern only has 4 stitches – increase, decrease, single crochet and a magic circle. These are the building blocks for a lot of amigurumi patterns, so if you can make one of these you’ll find there are a lot of other items you can make as well!
Please let me know if you found a pattern more or less difficult then the rating implied and I’ll update it – after all, I’ve become pretty familiar with my own patterns and that can make it a bit difficult to judge from an outside perspective. You can get in touch here.
The only thing I ask is that you link to the original pattern in the listing for others to find.
Also, this applies to finished products only – you can’t reproduce or sell my patterns in any form.
I use a number of different brands depending on what colours I need. If it’s a colour I purchased online, I’ll try to link to it in the pattern. But the majority of the colours and yarn I use are the Carnival Yarn Soft 8ply, which is my most readily available local yarn. I’m based in Australia, where the most common yarn weight is 8ply – which I believe is equivalent to DK (Double Knit) in the UK and the US.
I know a lot of people have used worsted weight yarn without issue as well, if that’s easier to find.
The yarn I use has a gauge of 22 stitches x 30 rows on a 10cm x 10xm square using 4.0mm needles, if that helps.
Occasionally I will use a 3.5mm crochet hook, or if I’m crocheting something and I want it to be much larger than usual, I’ll use two strands of yarn and a 4.5mm hook.
I picked up crochet during my summer holidays in 2013. I had seem some fantastic knitted Robin and Nightwing dolls on Tumblr and thought I would try my hand at them – somehow got the knitting confused for crochet and here we are! For the first 3 months I was crocheting in the back loop only without realising, and all of my pieces were inside out and terribly misshapen.
Once I figured out what I was doing wrong, things improved pretty quickly.
I taught myself through the amazing resources available on YouTube and the great online community that makes so many patterns available for free.